Siena’s Palio: The Historic Race Fueled by Passion and Tradition
The Palio di Siena is one of the oldest and most heartfelt events in Italy, a symbol of passion and tradition that spans the centuries. This horse race, held twice a year in the picturesque Piazza del Campo, has its roots in the Middle Ages and still enlivens the entire city of Siena with the same intensity as in the past. The origins of the Palio date back to the 12th century, when there is evidence of a horse race linked to the feast of Saint Boniface, the patron saint of the ancient cathedral of Siena. Over time, the Palio evolved into a celebration in honour of Our Lady of the Assumption, the patron saint of the city. From the 14th century, the race was held on 15 August, in conjunction with the feast of the Assumption. In the 16th century, a significant change took place: the nobles, who originally ran the race themselves, gave way to jockeys, skilled horsemen representing the various Contrade of Siena. In 1605, the Palio was officially moved to the central Piazza del Campo, where it took on its modern form. Since then it has been held twice a year: on 2 July in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano and on 16 August in celebration of the Assumption. In the 17th century, some of the rules that still characterise the Palio today were introduced. These include the obligation to run "a pelo", i.e. without a saddle, introduced in 1657, and the allocation of horses to the Contrade by lot, a practice introduced in 1676 to ensure fair competition. The seventeen Contrade of Siena, each with its own history and tradition, represent the soul of the Palio. During the race, the horses run three laps around the square and the atmosphere is charged with emotion: Contrada pride, factional rivalry and religious fervour come together in a single, overwhelming event.
It is this mixture of the sacred and the profane, of competition and devotion, that makes the Palio di Siena a unique event. A curious aspect of the Palio is the relationship between the jockeys and the contrade. Throughout history there have been episodes of betrayal and secret alliances that have contributed to the compelling and sometimes dramatic history of the race. Among the most famous jockeys is Andrea Degortes, known as 'Aceto', who holds the record for victories in the 20th century with 14 triumphs. The Palio di Siena is not just a race, it is a celebration of Sienese history, culture and identity. Every year, thousands of people gather in Piazza del Campo to watch this spectacle which, while remaining faithful to its ancient roots, continues to renew itself, keeping alive a tradition that fascinates and involves everyone who takes part. In conclusion, the Palio di Siena is much more than a simple competition.
It is an event of passion, a celebration of age-old traditions and a ritual that unites the Sienese community, paying homage to the history and devotion of a city that never ceases to fascinate. The organisation of the Palio di Siena is complex and governed by age-old traditions. Ten of the seventeen Contrade take part in each edition of the Palio. The seven Contrade that did not take part in the previous year's Palio participate by right, while the remaining three are drawn by lot one month before the event. The draw is made in public, and the flags of the three districts drawn are hoisted in the windows of the Town Hall to announce the draw. The seven contrade that do not take part are still drawn to determine the order of the historical procession and have the right to take part in the following year's Palio.
In the afternoon of the race day, a historical procession starts from the Duomo and crosses the city to Piazza del Campo. The jockeys, after receiving the 'nerbo' (a whip to incite the horses), line up at the 'mossa', the starting point of the race. The order in which they line up is determined by a mechanism called the 'fiasca', which keeps the starting order secret until the last moment. The tenth contrada, known as the 'di rincorsa', has the task of starting the race, entering the track at a gallop and triggering the front canapo. The race, short but intense, consists of three laps of the track. The horse that crosses the finish line first, even without a jockey, wins and the winning contrada celebrates by collecting the drappellone, the symbol of victory, which is taken to the church and then kept in the contrada museum. The celebrations continue for weeks with dinners and processions in the territory of the winning Contrada.